3 Day Closet Kit DIY Installation Instructions

Thank you for purchasing a 3 Day Closet Kit. Before you begin installing your closet, please inspect all the material and hardware for accuracy and workmanship. If you think you are missing any hardware or parts, please call 3 Day Closets immediately.

Please be advised that the cut edges of the melamine boards are very sharp, we recommend you wear gloves for your protection.

To simplify the installation process, it is recommended that you read through these do-it-yourself installation instructions completely and review each closet plan entirely before you begin.

The following procedures are for standard closet installations and may not necessarily apply to all closet kits, as some are more complex than others. If at any point in the installation you have questions or feel unsure, call us or visit our showroom and talk to one of our installation professionals for additional help.

1) Start by removing all existing closet material on walls which you will be replacing with new components. It is recommended that you spackle and paint prior to installing new material, but it’s not necessary. Do not remove baseboard unless you know that it is required for the installation. On walls where the closet system goes wall to wall, you may need to cut out a small portion of base to accommodate the upright. This can best be done by placing the upright against the wall and base and marking the base with a pencil. Use a flush trim saw or root zip router to cut the base out.

2) All walls are labeled with a letter: A, B, C, etc. Most plans are laid out left to right. For the purposes of these instructions, assume this is the case. There are circumstances where this may not be the case, and you should review the floor plan and elevation views for the correct layout for your closet.

Please note: Closets with corner shelving must be started in the corner where these corner shelves will be installed. You may work out in either direction form the corner shelves. Each section will be marked with a shelf opening size. See bottom of each section on the elevation view.

3) Place all upright panels on walls where they are to be installed. We recommend that you lean them against the wall at a slight angle. Most closets have baseboard and the panels are pre-notched for sitting over the base.

4) Starting with the first upright, determine if it is a finished panel or a common panel. Finished panels will have drilling on one side only. Common panels will have drilling on both sides. Working left to right, lay out the hardware associated with each panel. Each section will need hardware installed at the same height for components to work. Start with fixed shelf hardware and track. Adjustable shelf hardware and pole cups are the last components to be installed, at the end of the project.

5) Each section is held together by a fixed top (FXT), single or multiple fixed shelves (FXS), and in some cases a fixed floor (FXF). Fixed tops are usually installed in the first hole at the top of the upright. Fixed shelves may vary, depending on what type of section you are working on. Hanging and shelving sections usually have 1 fixed shelf in the center of the upright, whereas drawer sections may have up to 3 fixed shelves. Fixed floors are located at the bottom of the upright and will have a 2 ¼” or 3 ½” toe kick attached.

Floors are attached to the third or fourth hole respectively from the bottom. Floors use a snap-in radix, and are set on top of the radix bolt. No tightening is necessary. If there is no fixed floor in a shelf stack, start the first fixed shelf approximately 12” from the floor. All fixed shelves will have a cam lock pre-installed; you will only need to attach a radix bolt to the upright for connecting the shelf and tighten the cam.

If there are fixed shelves located at the same height on a common panel, a short single radix bolt is used on either side. It is recommended to assemble as much of the closet structure as possible with the fixed shelving before installing other components.

6) After fixed hardware is attached, you may begin connecting panels together with the corresponding shelves. Please be sure to support the panel and the shelf. A helper is recommended at this point. Using a Phillips screwdriver, tighten the cam lock on the shelf around the radix bolt. If you are starting against a wall, drill a 3/16” hole at the back of the upright approximately 1” from the back at a slight angle. This will allow you to install a #8x3” screw into the corner wall stud to help support the upright. Attach all uprights that are against a side wall with #8x3” screws. Leave the screws out slightly until the install is complete before tightening all the way.

7) Once you have installed the fixed shelving and the structure is up, secure the middle fixed shelves to the wall with a corner bracket. The bracket may be screwed to the bottom of the shelf with #8x¾” screw and to a stud with #8x2” screws. At this point you may begin installing other components. You may need to loosen the corner brackets to make sure the section is plumb when installing the drawers. Re-tighten after all components are in place.

8) Attach drawer track with 5mmx10.5mm euro screws. There should be a fixed shelf located above the top drawer. If more than three drawers are in a stack then a fixed shelf should be located in the middle. Basket track is considered the same as drawer track.

9) Adjustable shelves may be located at your discretion. Adjustable shelves sit on a shelf pin. If you order the “routed shelves” then the shelves will be notched to sit over the pin. Install poles at appropriate heights depending on which type of hanging is required for each section.

10) All other accessories are installed at your discretion as to which upright and section you want, using appropriate hardware provided.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully completed your 3 Day Closets Kit installation. Your new closet is now complete and ready to enjoy.

Additional note relating to walk-in closet tops.

Walk-in closets may be designed with screw down tops rather than fixed tops. This provides for a cleaner look and more support. Some tops may need to be cut to length in order to achieve a trimmed look where a top meets a wall. Tops at wall-end are usually machined longer for this purpose. We will be happy to trim the shelf to your desired size in our shop should you require assistance. Top lengths are generally noted on the plan for each section. In some cases two or more tops may be required for a long wall. Where more than one top is required, the tops will meet over the middle of an upright. In this case you will need to use a mending plate to secure the two tops together. Additionally, you will need to screw the tops down to the upright using a #8x2” screw. It may be helpful to lay your tops out and mark the center of the uprights and pre-drill a 1/8” pilot hole to screw into. Be careful to keep the screw straight so as not blow out the side of the upright!